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December 2023

Japanese Confectionery Inspired by the Crane

  • "First Sunrise" with wooden mold
    Photo: Toraya
  • Rakugan with crane and turtle designs (left) and their wooden mold (right).
    Yoshida Collection Photo: Toraya
  • Red-crowned crane
    Photo: Toraya
  • The red-crowned crane featured in Toraya's 1918 illustrated book of confectionery designs(left and right).
    Photo: Toraya
  • Tsurunoko (Torinoko) Mochi
    Photo: Toraya
"First Sunrise" with wooden mold
Photo: Toraya

Traditional Japanese confectionery, or wagashi, is often designed to convey the unique charm of the changing seasons in Japan. Among these, there are sweets shaped like cranes, commonly served during joyous occasions. Here, we introduce wagashi inspired by the crane, delve into the history of traditional Japanese confectionery, and explore how to appreciate their flavors through a wagashi expert.

Toraya Confectionery ("Toraya"), a Japanese confectionery shop with a history of approximately 500 years, houses a dedicated reference room for wagashi known as Toraya Archives (Toraya Bunko). Explaining the origins, Nakayama Keiko, Senior Researcher at Toraya Archives, states, "In its original sense, the term kashi referred to nuts and fruits. In the 16th century, Sen no Rikyū* established the art of tea ceremony, and during that time, confectionery mainly consisted of simple items such as fruits and rice cakes." She continues, "In the 17th century, confections underwent significant development, particularly in Kyoto, where luxurious sweets inspired by the changing seasons were crafted and enjoyed by the affluent, including the imperial court, nobility, and feudal lords."

Traditional wagashi are made using plant-based ingredients like rice and beans. They encompass various types, including rakugan**, which is made using wooden molds, yokan***, which is poured into molds, and namagashi****, where artisans employ tools and techniques for shaping. The main motifs feature plants (cherry blossoms and plums), animals (plovers and geese), natural phenomena (rain and snow), scenery (beaches and the moon), furnishings (folding fans and strips of paper), and more, resulting in a diverse and varied array.

"Wagashi is often referred to as 'edible art,' beautifully incorporating the changing seasons into its design. Its motifs, often inspired by traditional waka poetry, have been also favored as subjects in various art forms such as painting, textile weaving, and pottery. Even today, this tradition continues to be passed down," explains Nakayama. "Among them, the crane is a representative animal motif in Japanese confectionery. The graceful movements of cranes, such as dancing, standing, and crouching, have been intricately incorporated into various designs."

As the proverb goes, 'A crane lives for a thousand years, a turtle for ten thousand years,' cranes and turtles are symbols of longevity. Therefore, during occasions such as New Year, weddings, and celebrations, sweets in the form of crane and turtle sets are commonly prepared as treats associated with good luck.

 

 

 

Rakugan with crane and turtle designs (left) and their wooden mold (right).
Yoshida Collection Photo: Toraya

"Even when it comes to confections depicting cranes, the shapes vary greatly from one shop to another," says Nakayama. "One of our specialty wagashi named 'First Sunrise' features a design that captures the image of a crane spreading its wings like opening a folding fan, soaring against the backdrop of the sunrise. Furthermore, our white jouyo manju*****, made from, tsukune-imo yam******, shows the red-crowned crane's head by adding a vivid red dot (see "A Nature Reserve Where Rare Red-crowned Cranes Nest Year-Round") with the wings expressed with grilled markings.

Red-crowned crane
Photo: Toraya
The red-crowned crane featured in Toraya's 1918 illustrated book of confectionery designs(left and right).
Photo: Toraya

There are another wagashi called 'Tsurunoko (Torinoko) Mochi ', shaped like a crane's egg, made by mixing sugar into rice flour dough and shaping it into an egg-like form. It is often prepared in red and white colors for celebrations such as childbirth, a child's entrance into preschool or school, and other joyous occasions.

Tsurunoko (Torinoko) Mochi
Photo: Toraya

"Wagashi is often described as the art of the five senses: Delicious flavors (taste), the visual appeal of different shapes and colors (sight), delicate aromas provided by ingredients like azuki beans and yam (smell), and textures such as softness and moistness (touch)," comments Nakayama. "In addition, many wagashi have poetic Japanese names (sound) derived from traditional Japanese poems such as waka and haiku. The confectionery names themselves carry a certain resonance, and it is enjoyable to evoke images based on the sounds of the words or the associations with the waka or haiku that inspired their naming. Wagashi is an art of collaboration among the five senses, making it even more enjoyable." When in Japan, be sure to try the rich and diverse world of wagashi to fully experience its depth.

* Sen no Rikyū, who lived from 1522-1591, was a grand master of the Japanese tea ceremony and the founder of the "Senke" school.
** A type of dried confectionery made by pressing a mixture of rice flour, sugar, and other ingredients into a wooden mold for hardening.
*** A mixture of azuki beans, sugar, agar made from seaweed, and other ingredients poured into a mold and solidified.
**** Namagashi are fresh sweets and beautifully hand-crafted confections made from mainly sweet bean paste
***** In general, a steamed bun filled with sweet bean paste, made from a dough consisting of a mixture of grated tsukune-imo, sugar, and rice flour.
****** A type of yam (yamaimo) known for being the stickiest among yams and has the characteristic of becoming fluffy when heated.